It sounds like you have a nest of the eastern tent caterpillar. It is common in this area in the spring with some years being worse than others.

Caterpillars hatch about the time the buds begin to open, usually in early March. These insects are social; caterpillars from one egg mass stay together and spin a silken tent in a crotch of a tree. During the heat of the day or rainy weather, the caterpillars remain within the tent. They emerge to feed on leaves in the early morning, evening or at night when it is not too cold. The larvae are hairy caterpillars. As the larvae feed on the foliage they increase the size of the web until it is a foot or more in length. In 4-6 weeks they are fully grown and at this time they begin to wander away from the next in search of a protected area to spin a cocoon. The adult moth emerges from the cocoon about 3 weeks later. Moths mate and females begin to lay eggs on small branches. The eggs will hatch next spring. Removal and destruction of the egg masses from ornamentals and fruit trees during winter greatly reduces the problem next spring. In the early spring, small tents can be removed and destroyed by hand. Larger tents may be pruned out and destroyed or removes by winding the nest upon the end of a stick. Burning the tents out with a torch is not recommended since this can easily damage the tree. Young caterpillars can be killed by applying an insecticide containing Bacillus thuringiensis var kurstaki. Other insecticides include carbaryl, and malathion. Larvae within the tents are protected beneath the webbing and are more difficult to kill with an insecticide.

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You have a mulch fungus called serpentine slime mold, which frequently develops on shredded hardwood mulch. A lot of people describe it as looking like "dog vomit."

This slime mold is a naturally occurring organism because it feeds on decomposing bark on downed trees and other organic matter. It's not harmful to plants, just an unpleasant looking glob. It eventually dries into a mass-like powder. Resist the urge to blast it with water or yank it away because it will release thousands of fungal spores into the air. Those spores will settle somewhere and potentially develop. Instead, you can turn the mulch over so you don't have to look at it. Do so carefully. Or, scoop the fungus with a pitchfork or shovel, put it in a plastic bag and discard in your trashcan for disposal. There is no good reason to use any chemical fungicide on the organism. In reality, these organisms are good because they break down stuff in a healthy way, sort of like earthworms. When weather conditions are right, the fungus will stop growing. To remove the fungus from plant trunks, use a soft bristle brush and lukewarm soapy water to wash it off. Also, using alternative mulches such as pine needles, tree chippings and pine bark will reduce its likelihood.

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We have landscape designer that can come to your house and help you identity your plants as well as how to care for them. There is a fee for that, but you also receive a coupon with payment that helps you recoup your cost.

Another way is to take pictures of your plants and either email them to us, or print them out and bring them to the store for us to identify the plants for you, as well as tips to help you care for them.

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Knock Out® Roses were developed to be exceptionally easy to care for and that includes winterizing. Knock Out® Roses are cold hardy to zone 5a, where winter temperatures can dip down to –10 to –15 degrees F. Here in St. Louis we are 5b-6a.

In this area, you don't need to take any extra steps to care for your Knock Out® roses in winter. After the ground freezes a thick layer of mulch around the base, but not up against the canes, will keep the ground temperature even and prevent the roots from heaving. This happens when the ground goes through multiple freezes and thaws.

Depending on spring weather conditions, remove protective materials before the buds break open, normally in late March to mid-April.

Prune your Knock Out® roses in late winter or early spring, while the plant is still dormant. Remove any dead or damaged wood, do a little shaping if necessary, and take out some of the interior stems to improve air circulation. Every 2 or 3 years remove about one third of the old branches to stimulate new, fresh growth. If you are trying to keep the roses at a certain height, you can cut them back hard with hedge shears. No need to worry about usual rose pruning rule of cutting back to an outward facing leaf bud - just lop them down to the desired size. Knock Out® Roses spring back beautifully after being cut down to 6-inches.

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I would look at the area where your containers are and choose plants well suited for that area, and your lifestyle. We can help you choose the best combination of plants for both. Other factors can include light requirements of the plants, watering and fertilizer.

Assuming insects and diseases are not a factor, here are some general guidelines to go by:

Every plant performs best when placed within its light requirements. There are plants for every light situation from deep shade to full sun. When you are thinking of buying plants for an area, watch how the light flows in that area. Is it sunny in the morning, but deep in shade by noon, or just the opposite? It can make a difference in the plants we suggest for you.

Unlike plants in the ground, nutrients are being washed away with each watering. So fertilizing on a regular basis is a must. Time released fertilizers work very well, but even they should be replenished by the middle of summer. Choose the type of fertilizer that works best for you. Are you someone who likes to fertilize each time you water, or are you more of a---do it once and then don’t have to worry about for awhile (like me!) type of person?

Also, watering is crucial. The type and size of the container, soil used, site of the container, sun, wind, temperature and humidity as well as the plants themselves, all vary the watering needs of the container. A single missed watering may have dramatic effects on the plants. There are also soil amendments that can be used to help hold moisture and then release it as needed. Some containers will need watering every other day or so, or some may need to be watered more than once a day. When you first get your container home or planted, check for watering at least once a day, and then establish a pattern from there, allowing adjustments as the season progresses and the plants grow.

When you do water; water well. Frequent small watering will not reach the bottom and inner soil and your plants may fail to thrive. Over-watering can also be an issue. Make sure that your container is able to drain away excess water.

Containers can make a big difference in how your plants perform. A small terra cotta or moss planter will need frequent attention. Whereas a larger, plastic or ceramic planter will allow you more options and also may not need to be watered every day.

That was a lot of information to take in. Again, we are always here to help you with your choices. We want you to be successful, so let us help. Pictures of the site can be very helpful.

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It sounds like you have a lace bug infestation (not to be confused with lacewings) which are actually good guys.

Since its introduction from Japan in the early 1900s, the azalea lace bug has become a destructive pest of azaleas. Although this bug prefers evergreen azalea varieties, it will infest deciduous varieties. Female lace bugs lay groups of eggs on the underside of the leaves in September and October. These eggs are dormant over winter and hatch during March and April. The populations build from spring through autumn with about four generations possible. A large population of lace bugs can be established during July, August and September. It is quite possible to find all stages of the lace bug together under a leaf during this time. Injury to the plants is caused by nymphs and adults as they extract sap from the under surfaces of the leaves. The damage appears as spotted discoloration or bleaching of the upper surfaces of the leaves. In severe infestations, the leaves become almost white, many of them drying completely and dropping off. The undersides of the leaves are also disfigured by the black, dry, shiny excrement and cast skins of the insects. Repeated applications of an insecticide are usually needed to effectively control lace bugs. The first application should be made as soon as symptoms appear in the spring, followed by a second application seven to 10 days later. Applications should be repeated at monthly intervals as needed. Thorough coverage of the undersides of the leaves where the insects are found is essential if good control is to be expected. Look for insecticides that list lace bugs and follow label directions.

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It sounds like you have mealybugs. It is a small insect that is commonly found on houseplants. The females are covered with a white, cottony or mealy wax secretion and look like tiny cotton balls on your plants.

Adult female mealybugs can lay up to 600 eggs. On average, within six to 14 days, the eggs start to hatch, and immature scale crawlers emerge. This stage varies with plant species and indoor temperature. When it does occur, it’s the time when dispersal to new plant parts or new plant hosts occurs. So in other words: This is when you want to target treatment!

Once the crawler selects a feeding site, it inserts its mouthpart and begins feeding on plant sap. While eating, a sticky waste substance is excreted by the insect (commonly called honey due). Plant damage is caused by the mealybugs sucking plant sap and the pests’ toxic saliva, both resulting in distorted plant growth and premature leaf drop. Plant leaves also develop yellow chlorotic spots.

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A sharp stream of water may be all you need to remove them from your plant. Be careful not to damage your plant. Also, a cotton ball dipped in rubbing alcohol is an easy way to remove a small infestation.

Yellow sticky cards can be used to trap the flying adult males, preventing them from mating. Insecticidal soaps and horticultural oils work great in controlling this pest. The tricky part is mealybugs tend to hide very well where leaves attach to the stem, so make sure you get coverage there. Horticultural soaps and oils don’t have systemic properties, which means when spraying, the product must come in contact with the pest. A word of warning: You can burn leaves with horticultural soaps and oils. These products need to be applied when the air temperature is cool. Make sure your plants were watered well the day before you apply your control – never spray wilted plants.

Following labeled rates also reduces the risk of leaf damage. Systemic insecticides can also be applied to the soil, where the plant will take up the insecticide as it is watered. Remember to follow label directions.

Mealybugs can be controlled if you catch them early and time your treatment correctly. Crawlers are the easiest to kill, so time your spray right, and you can win the war against mealybugs.

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With the cold, dry winter this year, you may have noticed more winter-burn on your broadleaved evergreens and evergreen perennials than you might normally see. Winter damage appears as drying along the edges of the leaves, the entire leaf, the death of the younger shoots, or even the entire plant.

The damage occurs when the evergreen plant is losing water through its leaves faster than it can replace it from the soil. During the winter, this occurs when the weather is cold and windy, the ground is frozen, and the plant is unable to take up water. When the weather is warmer, the plant takes up water through the roots so that the leaves are better able to sustain water loss. If the soil is dry and the plant can’t take up water during warmer periods, then the damage is more severe.

How do you prevent winter damage?

Water broadleaved evergreens in the fall during dry spells, especially those that are newly-planted. You may need to water once or twice during the winter when the ground is thawed, more regularly if the plants are in containers. Particularly sensitive plants such as camellias should be planted in sheltered locations, out of the wind.

What to do now?

Give the plants a good soaking. Let the damaged leaves drop, they will be replaced by fresh leaves soon. For evergreen perennials such as hellebores or epimedium, remove the old damaged leaves and stems, taking care not to cut off the newly emerging leaves and/or flowers.

If the entire shoot looks dead, scratch the stem with your fingernail. If it is green beneath the bark, it is still alive and may send out new leaves. If it looks dry beneath the bark like a toothpick, then the shoot is probably dead. Regardless, wait a few weeks to see where new growth emerges before you prune out dead shoots, or pull out the plant. Unless you are an experienced gardener, it’s best to wait until mid-or late April before pronouncing the patient dead.

Feel free to cut off a couple of shoots about 6 inches long with some damaged leaves and bring it into the store. We will be happy to look at it for you and tell you whether we think your damage is caused by cold or some other factor.

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